Prepper's Web

By Mr. Pink

Ink by the barrel has been spilled by preppers on blogs and in magazines on how to prepare for the end of the world. We’re not doing that.  

Buuutt … seeing what is going in the Ukraine right now—a potential looming cyber-attack on US banking and energy sectors, a possible nuclear meltdown or maybe just a good old (quaint) cold war-style ICBM attack (I hope I can still duck and cover) we felt a realistic Field Ethos Prepper Guide was in order.  Even though basement ninjas try, nobody can prepare for every eventuality, but you can be well prepared with some basic items. To wit: here is the official FE preppers list:

Booze

There is no better prepper item to stockpile than hard alcohol.  One, you need it to live. And two, if you are one of those rare folks (like our own Allen Bolen) who doesn’t need it to live, you can always trade it for less life-giving-support items like food or shelter. 

Our stockpile favors quantity over quality. We buy as cheap-as-possible vodka, gin and whisky. Think McCormick, Dickels and Canadian Reserve—bend over and look on the bottom shelf. Buy in plastic ½-gallon Jug O’ Fun sizes. Pick up cases when passing through Wyoming, Colorado or Florida–it’s some of the cheapest in the country. Contrary to popular belief, booze does have a shelf life so be sure to consume and rotate stocks on a regular basis. 

(Pro-tip: Also buy a bottle of the most expensive shit imaginable. When things really get bleak, nothing says resignation like cracking open a bottle of Pappy’s you’ve been holding onto for years. It’s our version of Jed Eckert pulling the pin on a hand grenade and letting Toni wait for the Russians to come.)

Tobacco

Whether you currently use tobacco or not, tobacco is a wise investment as a barter stock. Our guess is when the first mushroom cloud appears on the horizon, just like game laws, your moral high ground and thoughts of consequences will go out the window as you pull a bare butt Camel from the foil top. Cartons of smokes and a few rolls of chew keep well in the chest freezer, and your only regret will be not buying more when you could. 

(Pro-Tip: Nothing says freedom like a Jesse Ventura-sized chaw in the cheek when getting ready to kill aliens or commies.)

Guns and Ammo 

Of course, firearms are a key Field Ethos stockpile. Admittedly we may own too many for practical use and may have even made ourselves a target for looters. As Jason Vincent once said to a prepper neighbor, “I only stock enough ammo to come and take yours.” It’s a worthwhile point. So stock enough to take care of you and yours and keep quiet about it.  No one should know you have 10,000 rounds of 7.62 x 39 stashed in the crawlspace. While of course you want plenty of ammo for a primary long gun and pistol, don’t overlook 22LR hollow points.  The little rimfire kills more game (and people) than bubonic plague, and 1,000 rounds can be tucked in a day pack.

And that’s it. You’re welcome.

It’s March. Does that mean spring skiing?

The answer is: sometimes. Which means once the sun gets this high, surface conditions will come and go with the weather.

If you want to know the best weather for spring skiing, check with those who produce our maple syrup. They know that warm days and freezing nights cause the sap to run. It’s the same thing with spring skiing.

This time of year, we have a full winter’s accumulation of snow, whether natural or manmade. And with today’s grooming, we can expect smooth surfaces each morning.

With the high sun, those surfaces will quickly turn wet, into what we call spring skiing. If it gets too warm, then instead of nice, forgiving surfaces over a firm base, we’ll have a heavy, wet snow.

What we need to be most aware of are changing conditions. When the temperature moves above freezing, we might start a run from the top and part way down hit a place where the sun has really softened the snow.

The first truly warm day, this can result in very grabby surfaces. To get the soft, wet snow we call “corn,” the snow needs to soften, refreeze and soften again.

This makes wax especially important.

WAX FACTS

My skis are always waxed with a universal wax with a wide temperature range. If you’re not sure about what wax to use, check with the ski shop. Most shops on the mountain are set up to apply the most-appropriate wax for the day’s temperatures. They also have rub-ons that can be applied during the day, and some of those packets of paste wax work well. Whatever wax you use should be applied to a clean base.

I hand-tune my skis every two or three days of use. I always start by cleaning the base with a citrus-based cleaner. These won’t harm the base like a petroleum-based cleaner will. I use a diamond stone on the base edges and do the side edges with a diamond stone in a multi-tuner set at a one-degree bevel.

Then, I polish the edges with a gummi stone. I apply my universal wax, which is good for temperatures from 20 to 50 degrees, the same wax I use for all skiing. That range works for mid-winter or spring. The folks in ski shop will know what you need as the temperatures climb.

BEWARE VARIABLES

The next consideration is how we ski when conditions are changing.

So far, we haven’t had to be concerned with any extreme melting, which can produce bare spots, but as temperatures climb, we need to be aware that these can appear as the day progresses.

A run with full cover can develop bare spots in the time it takes us to ride the lift back to the top. Mostly, all this means is keep our speed at a level where we can avoid such newly formed hazards. Most of this applies to April more than early March.

The usual rules apply. Always be aware that blind spots can hide hazards, so approach them with caution.

All this adds up to one recognition. One word can be used for all ski reports in spring. That word is “variable.” And it means be prepared for anything. Conditions will vary depending on where you are on the mountain and the time of day, and the later the season goes into spring, the more the conditions will vary.

BRING YOUR BEST

Another question is choice of skis. Often I hear skiers talk about getting out their rock skis and it makes me cringe. I picture a pair of old skis with old bindings, sometimes bindings that still have retention straps instead of ski brakes.

With changing conditions, you need all the ski you can get. They need to be skis you can maneuver quickly and need to be perfectly tuned. I have some old skis, but they will never see the snow under my feet again because I want my high-performance race skis with the best modern bindings.

If you have rock skis, they are probably not fit to be skied in any conditions. Go with your best.

Don’t forget the sunscreen and we’ll see you on the slopes.

Dave Irons is a freelance writer and columnist who hails from Westbrook. He has been contributing to the Sun Journal for many years and is among the most respected ski writers in the Northeast. He also is a member of the Maine Ski Hall of Fame. Write to him at [email protected] 

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Everyone I know is thinking about spring – despite the fact that we could still see snow and sub-zero temperatures before we see tulips. This might be a good time to take an inventory of your tools to see if you have everything you need, and buy the ones you need. This is also a good time to clean up, sharpen and oil the tools you have.

First, a list of the basic tools all gardeners need:

— Garden fork. This is a straight-handled tool with four flat tines that can be used to loosen the soil for planting, or to dig out things like a clump of daylilies. These come with either fiberglass or wood handles, and I always choose wood. Both handles can splinter over time, but an oiled and well-maintained wood handle will out-last fiberglass. I have some wood-handled tools still in great shape after over 50 years of regular use.

— Pointed shovel. I like the short D-handle shovel better than those with a long straight handle, but that is for you to decide. The short handle model is lighter weight, and has a nice grip. A pointed shovel digs into the soil more easily than a straight-blade spade.

— Garden rake. This is the rake that has short tines space an inch or so apart. It is good for smoothing the soil or forming raised beds.

— Lawn rake. There are a dozen different styles, and all will do the job. The old fashioned bamboo rake is nice, but the tines do break after a while. Plastic rakes are light-weight, but also break after a few years. I prefer those with metal tines.

— Drain spade. This is a shovel that has a blade that is long and narrow (16 inches long, 5 inches wide). Great for transplanting, it can get all the way under a plant to help you pop it out of the ground.

— Hand tool for weeding. There are plenty, but I like the CobraHead Weeder best. It is a hand tool shaped like a curved finger, and can loosen roots from below while you give a gentle tug from above. I use it to loosen the soil for planting, too. Available at garden centers or CobraHead.com.

Tools require some maintenance, and this is the time to sharpen, clean and oil them if you didn’t do it last fall. Fiberglass handles generally require no maintenance, though I suppose you could take off any rough spots with steel wool or sandpaper.

Wood-handled tools should never be left outdoors, but most of us forget occasionally; strong sun or rain will damage them and give them a rough surface. If the handle is very rough, use a piece of sandpaper and lightly sand the handle, tip to stern. Wipe it well with a rag before applying oil. For less damaged handles, rub with fine steel wool. Don’t sand a handle that has a urethane finish unless you intend to take it all off – but you can use steel wool on it.

Next apply a coat of boiled linseed oil. I like to heat the oil until hot before applying, as this is a fairly thick oil, and heating it will help it to penetrate the wood. I use a paint brush or a rag to apply the oil.

Let the oil sink into the wood, which might take overnight or just a few minutes, depending on the grain and how dry the wood is. Never try to oil a wet handle. Apply a second coat and let dry. Then rub it down with a fine steel wool, labeled 000 or 0000. This will take off any bits that are raised up by oiling and burnish the wood.

Next look at the steel of your tool. If it has crusted soil on it, clean it first with a stiff brush – either a wire brush or even a stiff bristle brush. If it is rusty, clean off the rust with your steel wool.

If you have a well-used shovel, it is probably dull. It is easy to sharpen it, but you will need a good 8- to12-inch file, either a rough or medium file, often called a mill bastard. Be sure to get one with a handle, as some only come with a short pointy part and require you to add a handle.

Shovels should only be sharpened on one side, the side that faces into the hole as you dig. The back side will stay flat. Push your file across the shovel blade in only one direction, away from you. You may wish to clamp the shovel to a saw horse or bench so it stays in place as you work, or push it down on the bench and file with one hand.

Go from the edge of the curve to the middle in one long stroke of your file, and repeat, keeping count of your strokes. Turn the shovel around and do the opposing edge, using the same number of strokes. Keep your file at the angle set by the manufacturer if that is evident. If not, an angle of about 45 degrees is good. That will make a sharp cutting edge, but not be so thin that it will get dull quickly. You don’t need to sharpen the sides. And don’t worry: You can’t ruin your shovel even if you have never done this before. Just keep at it, and stay consistent.

When you have the shovel sharp, turn it over and you probably will be able to feel burrs on the back side – little bits of sharp metal. Clean those off with a few flat strokes of your file.

Finally I take a rag with linseed oil and wipe the shovel blade. Some people use machine oil to oil their tools, but I don’t want petroleum products in my soil, even a little bit.

Every gardener has her own favorite tools. If you’re a rookie, visit a good gardener and ask for a tour of tools. Then go buy what you need. And remember: sharp tools work better than dull ones.

Henry Homeyer is author of four gardening books, an UNH Master Gardener, and lives in Cornish Flat. His website is Gardening-Guy.com. Reach him by email at henry.homeyer@comcaset.net or by mail with SASE at P.O. Box 364, Cornish Flat, NH 03746.

SALT LAKE CITY (ABC4) – In March of 2020, many of us ​remember it well for the beginning of a global pandemic, and here in Utah, a massive earthquake that rocked portions of the Salt Lake valley.

In the event, the “big one” happens again, or any other natural disaster occurs, the veteran affairs health care system of Salt Lake City is prepared to step in? It’s all a part of the national disaster medical system operation.

Salt Lake’s VA health care system spent Thursday morning holding a disaster drill. They want to know how well they can respond to emergencies like a major earthquake. The exercise consisted of a patient offload from a simulated C-17, reception, tracking, and simulated transportation of patients (actors) to local hospitals

This wasn’t just an exercise meant to help veterans.

“We’re the lead agency for running this operation and partnering with the community to care for patients and making sure they have a hospital bed,” says Gregory McQuaide, of the Utah Office of Emergency management.

The exercise is designed to replicate a real-life scenario after an earthquake hits Alaska due to an overwhelmed healthcare system there. Triaged patients are transported to Utah.

Dr. Angela Williams, Interim Medical Center Director at the Salt Lake VA tells ABC4 “well usually when we take patients from somewhere else that means we’re pretty calm one of our missions is to be robust in emergency partners and that’s one way we do that.”

Willams says Emergency professionals train yearly for a real-life event.

If this were the case the patients are then sorted by their condition, stable, serious, or critical…then taken to a local hospital.

“We’re building relationships, so we know who to reach out to, and that makes us better prepared for when real-life events occur,” Dr. Williams tells ABC4.

On this date …

1952: Roll-away bleachers were being installed at the Eastern New Mexico University gymnasium in anticipation of the upcoming state basketball tournament.

“Temporary accommodations will extend the permanent bleachers to the ends of the gymnasium. Additional bleachers will be installed on the ends of the court,” the Clovis News-Journal reported.

ENMU Athletic Director Al Garten said the additional bleachers would seat 1,372. That meant total capacity would be 4,872.

Eight games were planned for the tournament.

“ENMU will provide an experienced student manager for each team who will assist the visitors in every possible way,” the newspaper reported. “Teams may check their uniforms after a game with the university supply room where trained personnel will dry and care for the equipment, leaving the coach and managers free to enjoy the tournament.”

Members of the visiting press would have a 65-foot press box, elevated over the stands, available for game-time reporting.

Pages Past is compiled by David Stevens. Contact:

[email protected]

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