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Make easy survival recipe Alfredo sauce from storage foods

Pasta is easy to store and simple to cook – all you do is boil it in water. In an emergency situation, this can be done over a campfire, biomass stove, or just about anything that can produce heat.

But how will you make it taste good?

The answer is a sauce of some sort that brings variety to the menu, and keeps every pasta meal from tasting the same. This recipe uses simple ingredients that every well-stocked pantry should have.

Storage pasta can become a delicious meal when combined with this Alfredo sauce recipe.

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Alfredo sauce from storage foods

3-1/2 c water

1-1/2 tsp Italian seasoning mix

1 c white cream soup base

1/4 tsp chicken soup base

1/4 tsp garlic granules

1/4 tsp pepper, ground black

1/2 c Parmesan cheese, grated, dehydrated

In a medium saucepan, bring water to a boil, add white cream soup base, lower to a low heat, whisking cream soup base until smooth.

Add all other ingredients, continue whisking, lower heat to simmer, whisk or stir occasionally, cook until sauce is desired thickness. Serve over pasta.

– From Jan’s Fabulous Food Storage Recipes: Converting Stored Foods into Useable Meals by Jan LeBaron

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Stuff that works|Ten pieces of gear an outdoorsperson should have

Those who have hung out in the woods or wilderness areas for any length of time come up with favorite items that do the job. A good description might be: “Stuff that works.”

By Leon Pantenburg

Somebody commented: “The Ten Essentials survival gear is a given. That should go everywhere. But what are some of the other things you should have to thrive in the outdoors over a long time period?”

Everybody’s definition of “thrive” is probably different. And different locations and microclimates will have unique requirements. Personal survival skills have to be taken into account. And truthfully, I don’t really know if there’s gear list that would work everywhere. To make this manageable, let’s limit the list to ten, and the items must all be portable.

Here’s my short list:

My Ruger 10/22 is light, accurate, and absolutely reliable.

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Ruger 10/22 rifle: A .22 rimfire may be the most useful rifle you can own. Ammo is cheap and is easily available. The round has virtually no recoil and is quiet so it is the best choice for starting newcomers out shooting. But in the hands of an expert, a .22 is capable of taking larger game animals. In the hands of a cool shot, with the will and determination to use it, a .22 is a self-defense round.

I bought my Ruger 10/22 for $54 in 1966. For years, it was my go-to squirrel and rabbit rifle. It has harvested many small game animals, and provided me with countless hours of plinking enjoyment. Today, after at least 40,000 rounds through it, the Ruger is still as reliable as the day I bought it. Everybody needs a good .22.

Mora-style knife: A good knife is probably the number one tool needed in the outdoors. Mora is a brand, and a Mora -style

These are my favorites: from top, Standard, Jim Grenfell's Pukka, Hell 571, Troop 18 Mora, and C.T. Fischer custom knife.

These are my favorite Mora-style knives: from top, Standard, Jim Grenfell’s Pukka, J. Marttinni, Troop 18 Mora, and C.T. Fischer custom knife.

knife typically has a four-inch blade and is about 8.25 inches long. The Scandinavian grind is easy to sharpen, and the steel typically holds an edge well.

The design is one of the most useful you’ll find. A hunting buddy of mine has used his $15 Mora model 860 on at least two deer and an elk. But I use my Mora most often for small game and cleaning fish. If you can only have one knife – I’ll get some arguments here – a Mora-style may be the best choice.

Compass: Knowing how to use a map and compass is absolutely critical to backcountry safety. I prefer a clear base compass with a declination adjustment, designed for use with a topo map. I’ve used a Suunto M-3DL for years.

I also carry a small Silva as a backup.

Fishing rod and reel: Get a combo that works for your area. When I canoed the length of the Mississippi River in 1980, I pared down my fishing gear after the first week. For the next 1,500 miles I used an open-faced Mitchell 300 reel, a seven-foot medium action graphite rod with a fast tip and six-pound line. With that setup I fed myself quite well and caught about a dozen different species of fish.

Boots: Best choices depend on where you are. In the frozen north, your footware better be insulated. In the warmer climates, you need

The boots I wear the most, year-round, are these uninsulated Danner Cougars.

something that breathes and is cool. My all-around favorites in Central Oregon are Danner Cougars, an ankle high, uninsulated hiker. In cold weather, I wear Sorels. Whatever boots you choose, make sure they fit and that you’ll be able to walk comfortably in them.

Firestarting kit: The ability to start a fire can save your life. My go-to method is cotton balls and petroleum jelly lighted with sparks from a ferrocerium rod. Here are some other options.

Cast iron dutch oven: This tool is probably the best campfire cooking implement ever invented, IMO. You can bake, fry, saute, boil and simmer in this oven, and use it anywhere you can produce heat. Get a quality oven, take care of it, and your grandchildren will be able to use and enjoy it

Duct tape and paracord: Duct tape is indispensable. Paracord, the milspec type, has a breaking strength of 550 pounds. It is useful for anything that requires tying.

Tarp: One of the quickest, most efficient shelters is the simple A-frame strung between two trees. In addition to shelter, the tarp can serve as a ground cloth on wet ground, as a rain collector, as a sun shade…actually, the uses are limited only by the user’s imagination. I always carry a small tarp.

Saw or axe: Some way to cut firewood is critical for long term survival. I carry one or the other, depending on the circumstances. In camp, an axe for splitting firewood and felling trees might be a good choice. For backpack hunting, or in situations where you have to move around, the saw gets the nod. It’s quiet, allows you to process big game animals, and is much safer for the newcomer to use. Given a choice, I’ll take both.

So here’s a start. Take this list, tweak and change it to fit your needs and circumstances, and see what you come up with.

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Dryer Lint as Wilderness Survival Firestarter? No Way!

Inevitably, at every firemaking seminar I’m involved in, somebody suggests using dryer lint as firestarter. Dryer lint is incredibly flammable, apparently, and should be in your survival kit. My response: I have tested and tried dryer lint, don’t carry it, and recommend you don’t either.

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by Leon Pantenburg

You stake your life on your firemaking kit components. Let’s apply the common sense filter to this dryer lint firestarter idea.

This dryer lint ignited, then for no apparent reason, just went out. Dryer lint is unreliable as a firestarter. (Pantenburg photos)

Here’s some related information from the National Fire Protection Association:

Dryers and washing machines were involved in one out of every 22 home structure fires reported to U.S. fire departments in 2006-2010.(How many millions of dryers are used every day?)
In 2010, an estimated 16,800 reported U.S. home structure fires involving clothes dryers or washing machines resulted in 51 civilian deaths, 380 civilian injuries and $236 million in direct property damage.
The leading cause of home clothes dryer and washer fires was failure to clean (32%), followed by unclassified mechanical failure or malfunction (22%).

A standard construction practice is to run the exhaust pipe through the drywall with a 90-degree elbow. This can cause the lint to accumulate at that angle, next to the hot dryer.

So the question might be, based on the evidence from the house fires: Is dryer lint really that flammable? Or is it the combination of heat, improper venting and an accumulation of dry lint next to a hot dryer that causes house fires?

Our concern is survival firemaking though, so let’s consider the pros and cons of dryer lint as a firestarter.

Proponents of dryer lint firestarter claim:

Dryer lint is easily ignited with a match, lighter and/or ferro stick.
Dryer lint is compact and easy to carry.
Dryer lint is free for the taking, and flammable. There are multiple internet postings showing the material being ignited, along with directions for making lint-based fire starters.

My first concern about dryer lint has to do with reliability. In 2002, as part of a project for Boy Scout Troop 18 in Bend, Oregon, the late Dr. Jim Grenfell and I set out to find the ultimate, practical fire ignition method that would work for the average person.

We also tested practical firestarters. Dryer lint was one of the initial items tested and it never made the first cut.
The material used for the field trials came from my dryer, and I tested the lint from virtually every load of clothes for about two weeks. That ended up being a lot of testing! At the time there were three active teenagers and a Lab in the house, along with all the clothes drying associated with skiing, hunting, snowboarding, winter sports and school athletics.

Cotton balls infused with petroleum jelly and a ferro rod are effective firemaking tools.

Cotton balls infused with petroleum jelly and a ferrocerrium rod are effective firemaking tools.

The testing method was to take whatever handful of lint was in the filter, go out into the garage and ignite it with a ferrocerium stick. This is where the reliability issue surfaced. (Dog hair was a constant in all the test samples!)

Some lint, such as that from a load of cotton jeans, ignited readily. Lighting lint from a mixed load of natural fabrics and wool and microfibers was iffy, and sometimes the flame went out before burning up the lint completely. And several times, the lint from a load of polypropylene, wool and various synthetic microfibers didn’t ignite.

I’ve heard similar results from other scoutmasters who have checked out lint reliability.

My recommendation is to substitute cotton balls in any application where you might currently be using dryer lint.

Here’s why:

While dryer lint is free, a jumbo 100 percent cotton ball will cost less than a penny. The cost of filling a 35-mm film container or prescription pill container with five cotton balls is less than a nickel!
Cotton balls start out as a sterile medical item and can also be used for first aid needs, such bandaging or cleaning a wound or abrasion. Among the particles in dryer lint is dirt, dust, allergens and all sorts of airborne spores and microbes.
Both cotton balls and dryer lint can absorb moisture from the air. The difference is that cotton has long fibers which can be dried easier than lint, which is composed of small particles, pet and human hair, pieces of plastic and other, unknown materials.
Dryer lint mats and compacts more than cotton, making it harder to light. It’s more difficult to fluff up to light.
I carry cotton balls infused with petroleum jelly as one of the firestarters in my survival kit. If I start
to feel a hot spot or blister rising from a boot chaffing, I rub the area with the cotton ball and petroleum jelly. In a pinch, a petroleum jelly and cotton ball, along with duct tape, has been used to create a makeshift band aide. Never rub any skin abrasion, or try to stop a blood flow, with lint!

Grenfell’s and my conclusion was that: There is nothing dryer lint can do that a cotton ball can’t do better. The advantages of cotton balls easily make up the cost difference.

If dryer lint is still in your survival kit, please test before trusting it! Personally, I’ll spend an extra few cents and use cotton balls. My life is worth that to me!

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Ten tips about buying a high-end and/or custom knife online

Before you invest in an expensive knife from a company on the internet, check these things out.

by Leon Pantenburg

I didn’t expect anything from the knife company, but was checking out the customer service, return policy, and just how hard it would be to return something. (You’re welcome, oh loyal readers!)

I’m very pleased with my Bark River Aurora, a high end bushcraft knife.

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I bought a Bark River Fox River model, and handled one for the first time upon opening the UPS box. Initially, I was wowed by the workmanship, steel quality and blade design. I carried the Fox River for a few months, intending to field dress a deer in the fall. But I didn’t kill one, and never got a chance to use the knife for hunting. However, I whittled sticks, cut meat, did kitchen chores, and was 97 percent pleased with my purchase.

The dis-satisfaction was strictly personal. My wife could use the Fox River with complete comfort, but I have large hands, and the handle was a smidgen too short. And I didn’t like the extended tang.

The warranty said “complete satisfaction” so I called the Bark River factory in Escanaba, Michigan. Desiree, a nice lady with a Midwestern accent, answered the phone. I explained the situation, and she transferred me to another line. I let it ring about eight times then hung up. Within minutes, Desiree called back and transferred me directly to Mike Stuart, company president.

I explained the situation, and asked for partial credit on the Fox River. Mike asked about my knife needs, then offered to trade straight across for an Aurora, Bark River’s most popular Bushcraft knife with a longer handle.

Long story short, the Aurora arrived in the mail shortly after. I really like it.

Buying anything off the internet can become a nightmare. When you’re purchasing something as personal and important as a bushcraft or survival knife, you can’t afford to compromise. Before you invest, here are some suggestions:

Start with a ruler, a knife you know and a reputable cutlery company. Then think about this.

What do you want? What possible tasks might the knife be used be for? A thin, flexible-bladed fish filleting knife is very different than a sturdy drop point hunter for gutting deer. Have a general idea of what will be required of the knife.

Check the handle and blade in the catalog, then compare those measurements with a knife you can physically handle. Go to a sporting goods store and and look at a knife with similar measurements to the one you’re considering. If a handle feels to0 short or long on one knife, it will probably feel the same on another. Likewise, this will be a chance to see if you like a particular blade length.

Blade thickness: Again, check thickness measurements with a knife you know. My Cold Steel SRK is a superb survival knife, but its thick, sturdy blade makes it a not-so-good slicing knife. Forget about filleting fish with it. Conversely, I wouldn’t want to depend on my fillet knife for bushcrafting.

Check the design: I can appreciate the historical significance of a Bowie knife, but can’t imagine any use I’d ever have for one. Unless you’re adventurous with your knives and money, stick with something you’re familiar with.

Learn about steel: A beautiful Damascus steel blade may not hold an edge and could be worthless for butchering big game animals. Check out the different kinds of knife steel, and understand which will be best for your blade.

This Mora cleaned this limit of trout and was shaving sharp at the end of the job. The soft, non-slip handle was safe to use, even when covered with slime, scales and fish guts.

Handle materials: Decide where you will be using the knife, and choose accordingly. If you’re doing slippery, slimy fish cleaning or big game butchering, a soft, non-slip smooshy handle is a good idea. Whatever material you get, make sure the handle fits your hand.

Color: I have many different colored knife handles. I prefer the gaudy, hunter orange color on hunting and bushcraft knives. You don’t want to drop a black knife in the mud in the dark, a light handled knife in a snow drift or a camo-colored knife in the leaves. On the other hand, a rich dark walnut or curly maple handle looks just right with a traditional knife design. If visibility is a real concern, put some florescent duct tape on the handle.

Sheath: If the knife is a rigid blade, it should have a sturdy well-designed sheath. Big folders are best carried in belt sheaths, so check that out, also.

What is the best deal? You’ll see abnormally low prices on items sometimes, and in the fine print, you’ll see that the packaging, insurance, shipping, and handling cost are exorbitant. How much will you really end up spending? What is the real bottom line?

What are the return policies? Again check the fine print. It could be the money-back guarantee is complicated and hard to take advantage of.

What about a warranty? If you invest in a high-priced knife, you expect it to last. What is the company’s definition of “life time warranty”? See “fine print” above.

The best way to buy a knife is to go to a store, handle it, talk with someone who knows about the product and make your decision based on previous research. But if that isn’t possible, your next best bet is to find a reputable company or craftsman and work with them. A little time invested upfront can save all sorts of hassle later on.

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Get a useful, historic survival knife|The mountain man’s Russell Green River

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Looking for some inexpensive, quality meat processing knives? A standard of the western fur trade was a do-all utility knife manufactured by J. Russell & Co. and sometimes referred to as a “Green River”. Here’s a look at the Russell knife patterns, and how they shape up today.

by Leon Pantenburg

Three of us were on a backpacking trip to the Tetons when we came across a Mountain Man gathering south of Jackson Hole, Wyoming. A rendezvous in the tradition of the 1830s trading fairs was being held. There a lot of venders were there, offering authentic goods, and I bought a replica Russell Green River knife.

These modern Russell knives are of the same design as the mountain men used in the 1830s. The high carbon steel blades and wooden handles are very similar to the originals.

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A Green River doesn’t appear impressive. In fact, the knives look like they’d be more at home in the discount section of WalMart than in the Rockies. The high carbon steel blades have beechwood handles and a remarkable ability to hold their edge. They remind me of the Old Hickory line of knives, another excellent, inexpensive cutlery line.

At the time, I was working on completing my mountain man getup. I already had a .50 Lyman Great Plains rifle, which is a look-alike to the famed Hawkin, and had made a powder horn and shot bag. My pants and shirt from my Civil War reenactment uniform crossed over nicely, as did my slouch hat. The Russell finished off the ensemble.

This outfit worked very well for hunting in Mississippi, and for several years the Great Plains was my number one deer rifle. The Russell was used several times for field dressing deer, and the subsequent meat cutting chores.

When I moved to Virginia, the Russell shifted scenes and became part of my eastern longhunter outfit. It complimented my .40 caliber flintlock rifle and mid-1700s clothing nicely and dressed out a lot of squirrels.

I bought this Russell Green River replica at a mountain man rendezvous near Jackson Hole, Wyoming. It has been used extensively for a variety of camp and hunting tasks, and the old design works very well.

The mountain men used the name “Green River” as a standard of quality for anything traded. Anything done “Up to Green River” signified first rate merchandise.

Green River knives were made in Greenfield, Massachusetts by J. Russell & Co. The factory was started in 1832-34 to make butcher and kitchen knives. Close to 60,000 Russell Green River knives per year were shipped to the West for several years. Among the most popular is the Green River Scalper, Skinner and variations used by the American mountain man then.

However, the J.Russell & Co. did not start stamping their products with “Green River Works” until some time in 1837. It is unlikely any were even available to be shipped to rendezvous until 1838 or later. The Green River Knife was a favorite of the emigrant, gold seeker, buffalo hunter, miner, Indian, and settler.

These models are available today, but are now manufactured in Solingen, Germany, the traditional styles of the Russell Green River Works knives continue to deliver the highest quality knives at reasonable prices.

I bought several Russells for meat processing when I moved to Idaho in 1990. With no thought to nostalgia, and certainly no idea of ever reviewing them, I looked for inexpensive tools with proven designs. I wanted to buy several of each pattern to avoid re-sharpening cutlery while meat cutting. And, a variety knives meant a newcomer could get some hands-on experience.

I bought a dozen six-inch beef skinners at a butcher cutlery sale. They were distributed to my hunting buddies, and used extensively.

I bought a dozen six-inch beef skinners at a butcher knife sale. They were distributed to my hunting buddies, and used extensively.

My best score happened when I stopped into a butcher supply store, and found all the wooden handled knives on sale. Russell six-inch butcher knives were going for $2 each so I bought a dozen. I also bought a couple of Sheep skinner patterns with five-inch blades. I re-ground the tips to make drop points. The Russells were used heavily during hunting seasons.

The Sheep Skinner ended up becoming a favorite of mine, and one rode in my pack when backcountry big game hunting.

The standard procedure at the end of a successful hunt was to meet at my garage, skin and quarter the carcasses, then cut and wrap the meat. We could do all the work with the Russells.

Russell knives are remarkable in their usefulness, and you can still get them today for under $20 each. If you’re looking for some useful meat processing knives with a historical background, a Russell is a good deal.

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Build an emergency biomass block stove for $4

Suppose you have to boil water for purification and need an effective way to do it. Here’s how to make a biomass stove out of concrete blocks to get you by until help can arrive.

by Leon Pantenburg

So the earthquake/tornado/whatever hits, buildings collapse, the street is covered in debris and you’re on your own. Or pick a disaster that is likely to happen in your area. Whatever happens, you probably can’t depend on help arriving very quickly.

The first priority might be purifying water. In this case, your choices might be boiling and…boiling. You’re going to have to improvise a heating source that can use the wood biomass scattered all over. And you must be quick about it.

In fact, you may need to build several stoves to take care of the neighbors. Here is a simple biomass stove you can improvise out of the debris.

Here’s the biomass stove materials list:

This improvised block rocket stove could be invaluable after a natural disaster strikes. (Pantenburg photo)

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3-4 standard half-size concrete blocks: While concrete is not the best material for making a stove, in this case, the block may be the most readily available building material. A better choice would be fired farm drainage tiles, or pieces of chimney flue. Use what you have. One of the half blocks will have to have one side removed. You can do this – carefully – with some hammer work. Or you could look in the damaged wall until you find a three-sided block.

1-2 Size 2 1-2 tin cans, with both ends cut off. A taller can, like the large canned fruit juice come in, would work even better

Grill eyelet off a gas stove. Or something to raise the pot off the top of the stove by about 1/2 to 1 inch.

That’s it. Assemble the stove as seen in the video above, and you’ll build a pretty effective emergency stove.

If you like how this stove works, and want to make it a permanent fixture in your back yard, consider burying it in dirt at some point. That will help seal the air leaks, and bond everything together. It can also look kinda cool, like some high-tech Dakota fire pit.

A biomass stove makes the best use of woody debris, and this stove will heat water quickly, with a fraction of the wood needed over an open campfire. It is also safer, since the heat, coals and smoke are confined in a small secure area.

Survival gear doesn’t have to be elaborate or expensive – it just has to work. And the best survival investment is learning skills. Know-how doesn’t weigh anything, is always with you and can be a lot fun to learn.

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Recycle your survival gear: Make a sit pad out of your old Ensulite sleeping pad

For most hikers, the Ensulite (closed cell foam) pad’s days are numbered. Here is another use for that old pad in your closet.

by Blake Miller

Check out this Altoid tin survival kit kit with knife!

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Leon’s post on sleeping pads discussed the many options available to the hiker or hunter.

The closed cell Ensulite pad on the left will provide good insulation, while the egg crate style foam pad is a little softer. Both are rather hard to sleep on! (Pantenburg photo)

I am finding that most people are moving away from the old Ensulite pads for the very reasons Leon outlines. Though inexpensive, an Ensulite pad doesn’t provide a lot of warmth and comfort to the hiker.

Today I find myself buying the occasional pad for a new use, a sit pad.

A sit pad is a small piece of pad cut from the original that I will use while hiking, hunting and on Search And Rescue team missions. Of course I am not getting the full benefit of the pad by cutting it down, but I am not looking for something to lounge on either.

The pad is used to provide my bottom something to sit on. The smaller pad will help keep me dry, keep rocks from poking uncomfortably in the wrong places and provide some insulation on a cold day.

The shape is a matter of personal choice. My pad is about a third to a half of the length of the original pad. I’ll also cut down the sides too.

I can make two pads from one full length pad. I’ll put one at the bottom of my SAR pack, day pack and hunting pack.

I find used pads at my local thrift store, garage sales (for pennies) and military surplus stores.

An old blue Ensulite pad has a place on my hunting pack. (Blake Miller photo)

An old blue Ensulite pad has a place on Blake’s hunting pack. (Blake Miller photo)

(Editor’s note: My daughter made me a sit pad out of an old blue Ensulite pad when she was in Girl Scouts several years ago. It has a big heart drawn around a bright red “I love you!” My sit pad goes on every hunt.)

Blake Miller has made a career out of staying found and knowing where he is at all times. His formal navigation training began when he joined the U.S. Navy in 1973. He served as an officer aboard several Navy ships over his

Blake Miller

20-year career; many of those tours included the duty of Navigator. Blake began working with satellite navigation systems at sea in 1976, culminating with the then-new satellite positioning systems aboard the Battleship WISCONSIN in early 1990.

In 1998 Blake started Outdoor Quest, a business dedicated to backcountry navigation and wilderness survival. Blake has taught classes to wild land firefighters, state agency staffs, Search and Rescue team members, hunters, hikers, skiers, fishermen and equestrians. He regularly teaches classes through the Community Education programs at Central Oregon (Bend) and Chemeketa (Salem, OR) Community Colleges.

As a volunteer, Blake teaches navigation and survival classes to students in the local school districts, and conservation groups. He is a member of a Search and Rescue team.

If you have any questions about land navigation or wilderness survival, you can contact Blake through SurvivalCommonSense.com@gmail.com, or you can go to his website.

Contact Information:

Website: www.outdoorquest.biz

Blog: outdoorquest.blogspot.com

Phone: 541-280-0573

Email: outdrquest@aol.com

To hear the Blake Miller interview about choosing a magnetic compass and GPS on SurvivalCommonSense.com Radio, click here.

For more navigation information, click here

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Sustainablog (blog)
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