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Best survival knife? Bark River Fox River survival/hunting knife review

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Everybody should have a good survival/hunting knife. The Fox River, made by Bark River knives, might be a good choice for you.

by Leon Pantenburg

I have a weakness for custom knives, which is totally out of proportion with my ability to buy them. So while I have several C.T. Fischer custom knives, I’m always on the lookout for a high-end, affordable knife that will serve as a survival tool as well as doing a good job as a hunting knife.

The Bark River Fox River knife. I used this knife for a couple months, and found it was a good product

The Bark River Fox River knife. I used this knife for several months, and found it to be a good, reliable product.

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I’ve been carrying a Bark River, Fox River model knife for the last several months, and I like it very much. I had intended to gut and skin a deer with it in October or November, but I didn’t kill one.

Any knife I acquire in the survival/hunting category will have to meet some requirements. I want a four-to-five-inch rigid blade with a drop or clip point. Since I generally hunt in fairly isolated areas, weight and versatility are issues. The knife will have to do it all, from gutting the downed animal, to skinning and quartering. The knife shouldn’t need sharpening very often, but when it does, the edge should be restored quickly and easily.

These standards come from field experience and personal bias. It’s surprising how many knives can’t meet these minimal requirements.

The Fox River met those standards. Here’s a little info about Bark River Knives. The company is a family-owned business located in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Bark River emphasizes maximum product performance, according to their website, using a blend of traditional and contemporary designs and styles. Manufacturing methods are also a blend of modern and traditional.

To produce top performing knives requires the right combination of the finest grade of materials, skilled craftsmen, efficient and time tested manufacturing methods and strong knowledge leadership, according to Bark River.

Here are some features, Bark River claims, that guarantee a high-quality fixed blade knife:

• Laser cut from solid A-2 Tool Steel (A-2 steel is used for most Bark River knives.)

• Double quenched for maximum grain refinement • Triple tempered for maximum grain refinement

• Cryo-treated for maximum stress relief

• Convex ground to a sharp, hair shaving edge

• Ergonomic handle designs for ease of use

• 100 percent American-made (That part is huge for me.)

• Lifetime Guarantee-If you have any problem with your knife, just return it to Bark River Knife & Tool Co. and they will repair or replace it.

Here are the Fox River specs:

The Fox River series is designed to be a hunting/survival knife.

Overall Length: 8.25in/20.95cm
Blade Length: 4in/10.16cm
Blade Steel: CPM3V
Steel Thickness: .170in/4.3mm
Weight: 5.8 oz
Hardness: 59-60RC

I ordered the Fox River that was endorsed by Kevin Estella of Estella Wilderness Learning Center. My first impression out of the box was that the knife was really well-made. Finish is superb, and the knife was razor sharp. I like the design very much and improving on it would be hard.

I used the knife for kitchen duties at a couple of camps and it performed flawlessly for the meat and vegetable slicing tasks. I also whittled some sticks for firestarting and used it for general utility cutting.

I saw no need or purpose for batoning firewood with the blade, even though I’m positive it would have done very well. I had to work to dull the blade, even a little. Finally, I deliberately dulled the blade, but a few swipes with my Grandpa’s butchering steel easily restored the razor edge.

The leather sheath is made by Sharpshooter Sheath Systems, and it is high quality. The sheath looks incredibly sturdy, and there is no question it will withstand years of hard use.

I had to be really nit-picky to come up with much I didn’t like about the Fox River. And most of these “complaints” have to do with my personal preferences.

I wear size large gloves, which is pretty typical for males of my height and weight. The handle felt a trifle small to me for extended use. For me, the handle needs to be longer. (Looking on the website, I see I’m not the only one who complained about this – for 2014, the knife will feature longer slabs.)
I like a full tang knife, but the jury is still out in this extended tang. While I didn’t have any problems with it, I don’t see that it fills any purpose that a hole in the handle wouldn’t have. But I’m also a traditional type when it comes to knife appearance.
The Sharpshooter leather sheath is very well made. But the belt loop is too small to fit on many heavy-duty belts. No sheath on the market includes a d-ring in the loop so the knife can be attached to a carabiner or secured to a belt clip. I add this to every knife sheath, and find the systems to be secure, safe and handy. Swinging on the d-ring, attached to my belt clip, the Fox River is very handy and comfortable to carry.

The Fox River retails for about $150.00, which isn’t cheap, but certainly within the reach of anyone looking for a solid, reliable hunting/survival knife. Your knife may be the only tool you have with you when a survival situation develops. Don’t scrimp on your knife!

When I shopped for my first survival/hunting knife in 1990, it didn’t seem like there was a lot out there in the affordable quality knife market. I ended up choosing a Cold Steel SRK, and have used it with complete satisfaction. The SRK is in my emergency gear backpack, and I have no plans on replacing it.

But if I would have known about Bark River knives back then, my choice might have been a lot harder. And that’s a big compliment to any knife.

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Ten ways to recycle and reuse empty prescription pill bottles

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It seems like everybody has some sort of prescription medication. Most of them come in plastic bottles with seal-able caps. Here are some ways to make the best use of this underused resource.

by Leon Pantenburg

I never gave much thought to plastic prescription bottles until I was put on medications after open heart surgery. Suddenly, I was accumulating several of the small containers each month. Having a “Waste Not, Want Not” Depression-era mentality, I keep them, trusting that some day I will need a prescription bottle and have just the right size. Today, I have – literally – a bushel of different sizes, shapes and cap styles.

If you look around, you can find all sorts of uses for them.

Here are some general tips on using the handy little containers.

Check the cap fit first: make sure the container will seal and stay waterproof. If in doubt, test the sealed container in water.
Wrap them with several feet of duct tape. You need to carry duct tape anyway, and this is one place where the tape will be handy. You might also wrap a container with a bootlace or piece of paracord.
Use labels: You might know what is in the containers, but you may not be the one who needs to use it. On some containers, such as the cotton balls and petroleum jelly, you should post directions on how to use the contents.

Here are 10 different ways to use plastic prescription bottles:

Cotton balls and petroleum jelly make a great firestarter. Carry them in a prescription bottle and take along a quality ferrocerium rod for ignition.

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Matches: Even if your matches are waterproof, they should be carried in a waterproof, shock proof container. You may have to trim the ends of some for them to fit in a prescription bottle, but that’s not a big deal. Make sure to put the abrasive strip from the match box in, too, even if they are of the strike-anywhere variety. Some brands of matches won’t work with different strips. And, you may be in a situation – as in falling in a river on a rainy day – where there is no dry place to strike a light. Carry several backup match caches in your gear.

Cotton balls and petroleum jelly firestarter: My all-time favorite, go-to firestarter is cotton balls infused with petroleum jelly. (Don’t waste your time with dryer lint.) The treated cotton balls can be lighted with anything, but I prefer a ferocerrium rod. (Check out the video.) Each treated cotton ball will burn for about four to five minutes, which should be plenty of time to get a fire going. I usually tape two bottles together, with matches in one and firestarter in another. Tape a ferro rod to both and you have a firestarting kit to depend on.

Sewing kit: A backpacking sewing kit doesn’t have to be elaborate. You need some needles, sturdy thread (I’ve been sewing on buttons with monofilament fishing line forever) and maybe a button or two. Look at the clothing you will be wearing, and think about what could tear or rip, and what you might need to fix it. Then pack your sewing kit bottle accordingly.

Fishing stuff: I don’t carry fishing gear in my pocket survival kits. Here’s why. But on a day hike, I might grab a lightweight fishing rod before leaving and some flies or lures. The prescription bottles are ideal for packing lures, hooks, weights etc. If you segregate your different types of fishing equipment, you can take what is needed instead of a hulking tackle box with stuff you won’t use.

Sunscreen: Or other specialty lotions, such as chamomile, may be needed. Sunscreen is one of those lotions you’ll use year-round, and there’s no point in carrying a bulky tube if it isn’t needed.

Pills: Many of us regularly carry prescription medications, and that’s what these bottles were designed for. If you have different meds, separate them in little plastic bags before putting inside the bottle. You can also carry over-the-counter pills for minor aches and pain. As a minimum, I pack aspirin, Imodium and benadryl in addition to prescriptions.

Containers for flashdrives and digital cards: All records can be saved digitally, and you can take credit card numbers, ID info, PDFs of important documents etc and put them on a flash drive for safekeeping. Put the flashdrives or digital cards in a bottle to protect them from moisture, dust or dirt, and getting broken. Wrap the item in some cloth or something to pad it and keep it from rubbing.

Small screws, items needed for quick repairs: John Nerness, my hiking partner for more than 40 years, always carried a collection of aluminum pins, clevises and small repair pieces. The items are not heavy, and are well-chosen to fix a broken backpack and possibly a stove. (John is also an engineer, and always on the lookout to fix things.) During a hike in Idaho’s Sawtooth Mountains, the strap connection on a backpack broke, and he had the repair part. Take along an aluminum pin, some split rings, a couple feet of wire, and any small parts that may break.

Geocache containers: A great field exercise for learning to use your GPS is geocaching. The idea is to put a cache somewhere, post the coordinates on any of a number of geocache websites and let someone else find it. It should be good, clean fun – the motto is “Cache in, trash out.”

Food containers: If you’re backpacking and want to reduce weight, only take along what will be needed. Check to make sure the lids seal. For insurance, carry any liquids double wrapped in a plastic bag. You can carry cooking oil, syrup, spices or whatever is needed to turn trail food into a gourmet meal.

Look at your gear – chances are you can find something that can be packed more efficiently in a small prescription bottle. In addition to recycling a resource, you’re also making the best, most efficient use of items that might otherwise get thrown away.

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Stocking stuffer: Make an effective firemaking kit out of recyclables

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Can you easily access your matches if you need to start a survival fire? Check out these different kinds or match containers before choosing.

by Leon Pantenburg

Here’s very possible survival scenario from where I live in Central Oregon.

An emergency campfire may be the key to surviving an unexpected dip in an icy river. (Pete Erickson photo)

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Snow is on the ground, it’s cold, and you’re duck hunting or fishing on a fast-running stream in your waders. You slip and get a quick dunking in the 33 degree water, and must get to shore and make a quick warming fire. If you can’t get a fire going quickly, hypothermia is a possibility.

The butane lighter in your pocket won’t work because it’s too cold. You can’t open your match container, because some sand got in the threads of the opener. Now, what will you do?

(I’m just testing you regulars out there. Of course you’re going to have cotton balls infused with Vaseline and a ferrocerium rod along. Making a quick fire will be a done deal.)

I generally don’t carry matches in my survival gear (here’s why), because they are unreliable, and a finite ignition source. Under ideal circumstances, a trained outdoorsperson should be able to light one campfire with each match. But survival situations, by definition, are not ideal, and you need a reliable firestarting kit that will work under most circumstances.

That being said, I sometimes include a container of matches if I’m heading out with untrained people. Chances are, most people know what matches look like, and have a general idea of how to use them.

So let’s assume you have some quality matches. How will you carry them?

The most basic method, I suppose, is to carry them loose in your pocket. The next step up might be to carry them in a plastic bag. Again, bad idea, since there is virtually no protection.

Here are some things to consider about choosing a match container:

Could you open it with wet, cold, possibly muddy hands?
If you were injured, could you open the container with one hand?
Does it have a striking surface that would stay dry?
Is the container brightly-colored in case you drop it in snow or in the darkness?
Will the container protect the contents if it is dropped or stepped on?

The striking surface is really important. A strike-anywhere match can’t be struck everywhere. During a sleet storm in the wilderness, for example, a dry surface may be really difficult to find! A wet surface will ruin the tip of the match, and not create enough friction to cause ignition. Too coarse a surface might cause the head to snap off. So, the best bet is to include a piece of the match box abrasive strip inside the container.

Here are some match containers I have used.

I carried one of these containers for years before discovering how dangerous they can be.

Plastic bag: When car camping, the safest way to light a stove or lantern is with one of those long-stemmed butane lighters. But in the cold, butane doesn’t vaporize easily, so I carry backup matches. Book or strike-anywhere matches don’t do well in damp conditions, so sealing them from moisture is common sense.

Metal: When I was a kid, assembling my survival gear for the wilds of Iowa, I ordered a metal match container from Herter’s. (How many of you baby boomers remember this company?) The match container was made of seamless nickel plated brass, had a rubber seal, and was waterproof. A striking surface was on the body of the container. It had a ring so it could be secured.

If you currently have one of these in your survival kit, get rid of it! I found that the metal container jams when sand, grit, pocket lint, etc get in the threads of the top device. In some instances, the the thing would lock up solid, required two pliers to twist the thing open. And forget about opening it with one hand!

Don’t depend on a piece of gear that could prove dangerous.

Prescription bottles/containers: Everybody has a prescription for something, and the recycled bottles make good match containers. I particularly like the screw-on type. In addition to carrying matches, the bottles also make excellent carriers for cotton balls and Vaseline firestarters.

Cotton balls infused with petroleum jelly, combined with a metal match, make an effective and reliable firestarting method!

This is an effective way to carry matches and firestarter in plastic, waterproof match containers.

Plastic: These are the containers I currently use. They’re cheap – about a buck or so at Walmart, available in blaze orange, and have a flint striker on the bottom. I find the striker largely ineffective for making sparks, and I wouldn’t rely on it to start a fire.

But the tops can be twisted off easily, even one-handed. In a pinch, you could hold the top with your teeth and get the container open.

Survival expert Peter Kummerfeldt recommends this setup: duct tape two of the containers together, with ferrocerium rod attached. Put matches in one container, and cotton balls infused with Vaseline in the other. Duct tape the two together, and you have an effective methods of combining your firemaking tools.

This setup gives you everything you need to get a fire going in virtually any circumstance or situation.

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Pilot Bread: Try this modern day version of hardtack

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Hardtack has been an emergency ration since time immemorial. Here’s a look at pilot bread, a modern day version of hardtack and why you should consider including it in your survival gear.

by Leon Pantenburg

I’ve carried and eaten hardtack since my time in the Confederate infantry, and baking it is another history-related activity I enjoy. When I’m really going primitive, hunting with my flintlock rifle, I might pack hardtack, jerky and dehydrated corn for lunch.

Pilot bread is a form of modern hardtack. Consider it as an addition to your storage foods.

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But if you’d rather buy a similar hard cracker product for long term storage, take a look at pilot bread. I get my pilot bread from the Freeze Dry Guy, but the product is widely available. It’s a good staple to have on hand – it’s sorta tasty, durable, and has a long shelf life.

If I had to describe pilot bread, I’d call it a salt-less saltine, but with a tougher texture. While the bread is hard, it is easily bitten off, and the texture is much softer than the traditional recipe hardtack I make. Pilot bread also has fewer crumbs than a standard saltine. A nice feature is the durability – pilot bread with peanutbutter and/or fruit jam stands up well to travel in a daypack.

Pilot bread is a common storage food item in Hawaii, and Alaska and The Diamond Bakery “Saloon Pilot” cracker is available in many stores. Sailor Boy brand Pilot Bread is well-known in the Northwest United States and Alaska, and I got mine at the local Food 4 Less.

It is “a very inspirational food” in Alaska, according to the Sailor Boy Facebook page. Alaskans are among the last to eat hardtack as a significant part of their normal diet. Interbake Foods of Richmond, Virginia, produces much of the commercially available hardtack under the “Sailor Boy” label—98 percent of its production goes to Alaskans.

Originally imported as a food product that could handle rigorous transportation throughout Alaska, pilot bread has become a favored food even as other, less robust foods have become available. Alaskan law requires all light aircraft to carry “survival gear,” including food.

The blue-and-white Sailor Boy Pilot Bread boxes are common at Alaskan airstrips, in cabins, and virtually every village. Whether it’s topped with salmon spread, seal oil or old-school Crisco and sugar, chances are if you’ve ever lived in rural Alaska you’re familiar with that long, rectangular, navy blue box. The Alaska Dispatch claims pilot bread is soul food for rural Alaskans -mothers give it to their babies to teeth on, village grocery stores, no matter how sparse, carry it on their shelves, and seldom does a hunting party venture out in the country, or a family head to fish camp, without a supply stowed away in someone’s bag.

Lots of people have their favorite ways to enjoy them: topped with cheese or Spam or spread with peanut butter and jam or honey. You can also spread them with ground meat, cheese and tomato sauce and make pizzas. some people even know how to make “pizzas” with them.

For more info from the Alaska Dispatch click on pilot bread

While I use pilot bread frequently, I also bake hardtack for backcountry trips and the bread’s conversational value around the campfire. Here is a very traditional hardtack recipe from the Civil War. When done, this hardtack has the consistency of a fired brick, and lives up to the nickname of “teeth dullers.”

Army Hardtack Recipe

4 cups flour (preferably whole wheat)
4 teaspoons salt
Water (about 2 cups)
Pre-heat oven to 375° F
Makes about 10 pieces

After cutting the squares, press a pattern of four rows of four holes into each square, using a nail or other such object. Do not punch through the dough. The appearance you want is similar to that of a modern saltine cracker. Turn each square over and do the same thing to the other side.

Place the squares on an ungreased cookie sheet in the oven and bake for 30 minutes. Turn each piece over and bake for another 30 minutes. The crackers should be slightly brown on both sides.

The fresh crackers are easily broken, but as they dry, they harden and assume the traditional texture.

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Doomsday prepper featured on TV hails from Dayton area – Your Houston News

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