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BlogTalkRadio (blog) Today’s guest on Doctor Prepper’s Talk Show is Kevin Barber, who is the Marketing Chief at MainstreamPreppers.com, and played a key role in their channel’s launch. Kevin recently moved his family from Kansas to Costa Rica to build the ideal family … |
Five steps to assure GPS accuracy in the field
If we would have followed my GPS’ recommendations, we would have ended up lost in the desert. Here is what to do when the GPS directions just don’t look right.
From Leon: My brother Mike Pantenburg, friend John Nerness and I were hiking in the
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Oregon Badlands Wilderness Area recently, headed for Badlands Rock. I have made that three-mile hike many times, and am familiar with the terrain and where the rock should be. I established the car’s waypoint on my Garmin Venture, plugged in the coordinates for Badlands rock and we took off.
We hadn’t hiked together in almost a year, so most of our attention was on gabbing and catching up. I paid perfunctory attention to the GPS. At one break, though, I noticed that the directions to Badlands rock were way off. According to the GPS, we were 30.5 miles from our destination! Some quick work with map and compass got us back on track.
I take all my navigation questions to survival and navigation instructor Blake Miller. I asked Blake – what went wrong? It was a clear day, I am very familiar with my GPS’ operation, and there was nothing that should have affected that receiver.
Here’s Blake’s reply:
by Blake Miller
Ever have one of those “GPS days” when the darn thing is providing a bearing that looks way off the mark….”that can’t be right?”
Our GPS receivers are very accurate – what should the hiker do when the information displayed just doesn’t look right?
Here is the typical scenario: As the hiker leaves camp he marks “camp” as a waypoint in the GPS. Throughout the day the hiker maneuvers about the forest and by late afternoon it is time to return to camp. He selects “find” and calls up the waypoint for camp.
The GPS indicates that camp is two miles out on a bearing of 330 degrees; but that doesn’t look right. The hiker compares the receiver’s information with map and compass. After a bit of analysis the hiker recognizes there is a problem. What should he do?
I have a few recommendations to help improve the inaccuracy the hiker is experiencing.
- First, calibrate the electronic compass. Always calibrate the compass after installing new batteries. (Check the owner’s manual to determine if your GPS has an electronic compass.)
- Second, turn off the GPS, turn it back on, select “find” and evaluate the new data to return to camp. Check the satellite view screen to ensure that at least four satellites are being tracked. Consider moving to an area that has an open view of the sky.
- Third, if the information present still looks in error, take five to ten steps in the direction recommended to see if movement effects the data displayed.
- Fourth, open the battery compartment and remove one of the batteries. Keep the battery out for 10-20 seconds and then return it to the GPS. Power the GPS back on and repeat the process by selecting “find” to return to camp.
- Lastly, it may be that the saved position of camp was made before a solid satellite lock was achieved. Compare the saved coordinates for camp with the plotted position of camp.
Usually, taking these five steps will clear up the issue.
Remember, never leave map and compass at home.
Blake Miller has made a career out of staying found and knowing where he is at all times. His formal navigation training began when he joined the U.S. Navy in 1973. He served as an officer aboard several Navy ships over his twenty-year career; many of those tours included the duty of Navigator. Blake began working with satellite navigation systems at sea in 1976, culminating with the then-new Global Positioning Systems aboard the Battleship WISCONSIN in early 1990.
In 1998 Blake started Outdoor Quest, a business dedicated to backcountry navigation and wilderness survival. Blake has taught classes to wild land firefighters, state agency staffs, Search and Rescue team members, hunters, hikers, skiers, fishermen and equestrians. He regularly teaches classes through the Community Education programs at Central Oregon (Bend) and Chemeketa (Salem, OR) Community Colleges.
As a volunteer, Blake teaches navigation and survival classes, to students in the local school district and conservation groups. He is a member of a Search and Rescue team.
Contact Information :
Website: www.outdoorquest.biz;
Phone: 541 280 0573;
Email: outdrquest@aol.com
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Video: Five things to avoid when choosing a survival/hunting knife.
What qualities need to be included the best survival/hunting knife is the topic of endless discussion. But maybe the conversation should start with the attributes you don’t want. Here are some suggestions.
by Leon Pantenburg
My preferences in survival/hunting knives are based on experience, personal prejudices and use in the field. So when readers ask which style knife I prefer, it’s sometimes easier to point out what I don’t want.
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But for the sake of definition, I’m going to call a survival/hunting knife the one knife you would take along in your daypack on a hunt. That knife would be able to handle whatever survival tasks came up, as well as process a big game animal in the field.
If you’re choosing a survival/hunting knife, here are some things to avoid:
Folding blade: I carry a couple of folding knives on a daily basis, and I love pocket knives of all sizes, shapes and configurations. But the weak point in any folder is the hinge, and that is the place it is most likely to break. The hinge is also an expensive part to make, so in less-expensive folders, that means quality will have to be compromised somewhere else.
Any folder has the potential to fold the blade on a finger. A lock blade won’t guarantee safety. Several years ago, a local Boy Scout cut his finger severely when the lock on his blade failed. This won’t happen with a rigid blade. Also, when you’re using a knife for cooking, you don’t want a folder because of the potential for food debris to get in the handle and joints of the hinge.
For years, I carried a Buck folding hunting knife, and still like it very much. But I wouldn’t consider any folder a survival knife.
Gut hook: The only value of a gut hook, IMO, is to make a couple of incisions down the belly when gutting a big game animal. Those specialized cuts are not worth having a gut hook for. The hook looks awful, will catch on things, may snag your clothing or possibly cut you. It eliminates the ability to apply pressure on the top of the knife.
A gut hook can be used for some skinning, but it requires a specialized file or tool to sharpen it. It you must have a gut hook, get one designed specifically for gutting and skinning, such as a Wyoming Knife with replaceable blades.
Serrated edge: Another specialized grind that isn’t that useful. If you’re doing a lot of cutting of weeds, fibers etc, there might be some benefit to a serrated edge. I’ve heard some law enforcement officers and military folks like a serrated edge for cutting through zip-ties used as handcuffs. But generally, the serrations will dull fairly easily, and require a specialized tool and some expertise to restore sharpness.
Hollow handle: The 1980s Rambo movies, starring a steroid-infused, testosterone-exuding Sylvester Stallone, started the whole hollow-handle Bowie-type survival knife cult. Rambo, according to the “First Blood” scriptwriters, could apparently pack anything he needed for wilderness or urban survival in the hollow handle of his knife/sword. As the Rambo movies progressed, the knives got bigger.
In the real world, I don’t see any point in a knife with a hollow handle. The miniscule storage space gained from the hollow is not worth compromising the tang in the handle. (Beside – just what would you put in that space? Here’s some thoughts – check out what to put in your hollow handle knife.)
Blade saw edge:You’ve all seen the survival knives with the saw grind on the back of the blade opposite the edge.
Most of those saws are worthless. For a saw to cut and clean itself, the points have to be alternately offset of each other. That means the points protrude past the edge of the steel. This would cause the blade to catch on the sheath. Also, unless the blade is really long, you’d get a tiny, inches-long stroke. Even if the saw blade was sharp, and cut and cleaned itself, it would take a long time to cut through anything.
Blade too long: For decades, I have handled my big game processing chores with a variety of butcher tools with blades ranging in length from three to 10 inches. Each tool has a specialized task, and it performs that job very well. But the knife I carry hunting will have a four-to-six-inch blade. It will be used for gutting the animal in the field, skinning and quartering the carcass.
So what do I use? A Cold Steel Master Hunter is a really good choice as a hunting knife. My Cold Steel SRK is my pick for a survival knife. My C.T. Fischer four-inch Bushcraft knife is probably the most versatile, rugged knife I own. Because of its light weight, small size and comfortable handle, I tend to include it in my pack on most outings.
Those are my choices and my thoughts.
Check out this special camping section videos and stories
Spring is when most people start thinking about camping.
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But for people concerned about disaster and emergency evacuations, learning how to comfortably live outdoors in a camping scenario is just common sense, and should be part of any family emergency planning plan.
Regardless of your motivation, there is something about living outdoors, even if it’s just for overnight, that is particularly appealing to many of us urban dwellers.
Check out this special beginning camping section to get some tips on how to safely contain a campfire, tools for starting Dutch oven cooking, the best raingear for your circumstances, how to build a primitive latrine, and choosing the best fuel for lanterns, stoves and heating implements.
And please, subscribe to our Youtube channel and free email update. I appreciate your support, and it helps SurvivalCommonSense.com a lot!
Preppers: Ready for disaster – MyFox Washington DC
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Video: How to make charcloth, a miracle survival kit fire starter
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Catching a spark and blowing it into a flame is a skill that can save your life. Charcloth is a material that has been “cooked” like charcoal is at high temperatures until it becomes black. Properly-made charcloth will easily catch a spark and grow into an ember. This ember can be transferred to a tinder bundle and blown into a flame.
Here’s how to make it!
by Leon Pantenburg
Once you discover how easy it is to make charcloth, you’ll never have an excuse for running out, or not having some in your survival kit. Here’s the items you need, and what you need to do:
Materials:
A regular-sized Altoids or other brand of mint tin, with a small hole punched in the top. The photos show a larger tin can for increased production.
Blue denim from old Wranglers or Levi 501s or work jeans works very well as the material to be charred. Other 100 percent cotton items and some organic materials can also be used. Another favorite material is 100 percent cotton insulated underwear. We favor denim because there is never a shortage of old jeans in any group of growing boys!
Also, if you ever need to make charcloth in an emergency, chances are somebody will be wearing jeans! And don’t forget that a 100% cotton bandanna can provide lots of charring material. (But test every batch before including it in a survival kit – you never know when some charcloth might not work!)
A source of heat – campfire coals work well, and so does a backpacking or camp stove. You can use a barbecue grill or propane heater in your backyard. Charring is a smoky process, so make sure you go outdoors.
Once these items are assembled, tear up the denim and pack it loosely (so the contents have some spring to them) to the top of the can.
Place the can on the heat source and cook.
Actual cooking time will vary, depending on heat intensity, outdoor temperature etc. The heat should be high enough that the can starts to smoke through the hole in the top.
At some point, in about five to ten minutes, the smoke should ignite. Then adjust the heat, if possible, so the flame stays about two-to-four inches high. When the flame dies down, and the smoke lessens, take the can from
the fire and let it cool completely. When you open the can, check the charcloth to make sure it is completely black and somewhat flexible.
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